A Christmas wonderland rooted and enriched in its traditions

Tucked away in the lush vegetation of Guyana’s Essequibo Coast, Region Two (Pomeroon-Supenaam), some 65 kilometres away from the capital city Georgetown, is a hidden gem that lies untouched by most of society.
The village named Mainstay/ Whyaka is a unique location. With its raw, ineffable beauty, it is one of Guyana’s hidden tourist destinations. The slow pace of life, coupled with the exotic flora and fauna found within the village, offers visitors a true sense of tranquility.

History
Whyaka, which is now known as Mainstay, was established around the year 1887. The original name Waiyaha, which is an Arawak word meaning “first person here at this place”, hints that the first inhabitants of this village were Arawaks. These indigenous, ancestors who have inhabited the lands for over a century, thrived in the area by working together and partaking in various activities, including fishing, hunting and planting of their cassava farms.

What was Christmas like in the village during the early 2000s?
In a bid to find out how residents of riverine and far-flung communities celebrate the holiday season, Guyana Times spoke with Kenisha James, a graduate of President’s College, who completed the Caribbean Secondary Education Certificate (CSEC) in June.
Reminiscing on her holiday experience in Mainstay/ Whyaka, James explained that, as a youngster growing up in the village, this holiday season was one of the most thrilling times of the year.
Reflecting on those heartfelt memories, James labelled the Mainstay/Whyaka Christmas experience as unique – a feeling she said words cannot describe.
“Celebrating Christmas in my village when I was younger was probably one of the most exciting things for me. There was just a different feeling in the air, and there was nothing better than being among my friends and family during the Christmas season,” she explained.

With a cheerful voice, she continued to describe the aroma of Mainstay/Whyaka, despite growing up with no electricity in some parts of the village.
On the topic of power generation, James explained that her community was part of the group of settlements that weren’t connected to the grid. However, this did not stop her family from having a true authentic Mainstay/ Whyaka Christmas experience.
James told this publication that, with the use of a generator, she was still able to watch some of the iconic Christmas movies during the holiday season.
“I could recall when I was growing up there was only electricity available at a certain part of Mainstay, but where I was living, we used generators, so we still had the opportunity to watch some of the popular Christmas movies and TV shows,” she asserted.
While most people would assume that people who live in riverine and far-flung communities do not place a lot of emphasis on decorating their homes for the holiday season, the 17-year-old explained that this was not the case in her village. She highlighted that, as the holiday season approached, houses in the village began to transform into a mini-Christmas wonderland, as residents began to deck the walls of their homes with the traditional Christmas décor, such as the popular fairy lights and floral wreaths seen on homes within the urban centres.

James said, “I think at least every house in Mainstay tried to put up some sort of decoration during Christmas season.”
One of the most popular dishes Guyanese anticipate preparing during the festive season is Pepperpot, which is an Amerindian-derived dish that is traditionally served at Christmas. This dish is usually reserved for special occasions because it needs to be cooked for several hours, and is mostly eaten on Christmas Day or during the Christmas holiday season.
With more than 70% of the village population being of Amerindian descent, the smell of bubbling cassava cassareep, thyme and wiri-wiri peppers, among other ingredients, permeate the village during the holiday season, leaving no nose untouched. In her home, the 17-year-old revealed, this dish is usually prepared by her mother on Christmas Eve.
“In my house, my mother usually prepares pepper pot on Christmas Eve. And I think it’s the same for almost everyone,” she declared.
James explained that, apart form pepperpot, the villagers would prepare several other dishes as well as beverages to distribute among visitors.
“We prepare stuff like sorrel, ginger beer, cakes and other sweets to share when people visit,” she disclosed.
Asked about the nuances between her Christmas experience growing up and what obtains in modern times, James highlighted that a lot hasn’t changed, as villagers continue to embrace their annual traditions throughout the holiday season. However, she highlighted that the Christmas experience has improved significantly over the years, particularly for young children, as the village now conducts an annual Christmas tree light-up as well as distribution of toys.
“I would say access to toys, because people in the village we now do annual Christmas tree light-up and toys are being shared to children, and that’s something that wasn’t done in the community when I was growing up as a child. So, I’m really excited that children in the area now have this opportunity,” she explained.
Despite the area not being fully developed, the 17-year-old is encouraging Guyanese to spend the season in Mainstay/Whyaka. She says the village promises to offer a unique experience for visitors, particularly those who haven’t witnessed nature’s beauty in its purest form. She noted that the residents of the area are always happy to have visitors.
“Even though Mainstay is not like a very populated area, and there is not like a lot to see, the people and the family is very welcoming, and I think people would love to spend Christmas with us,” she has declared.