Dear Editor,
Every year, as Easter approaches, something almost magical happens: bakers throughout Guyana prepare themselves for a particular phenomenon; in my opinion, a mystical phenomenon — the massive demand by Guyanese from all backgrounds for delicious, freshly baked cross-buns.
For many years, the original cross-bun recipe has been tweaked in different ways to produce a wide variety of unique Guyanese products. Tips and tricks of cross-buns’ preparation have been handed down from mother to daughter and from father to son over many generations.
Individuals and families who don’t have the time or skills to bake their own cross-buns have to place their orders early with their favourite bakers and patisseries. The demand is high; if you wait too late, there’s a good chance that they might be sold out. And there is much debate over what cross- buns taste best, and where they can be bought.
Come Good Friday, some people eat only cross-buns, sometimes with cheese, or even peanut butter or jam.
While the cross-bun is associated with the Christian observance of Good Friday, Guyanese from all religious backgrounds pursue their share of this delicious treat, which is essentially a sweet bun symbolically marked with a cross. There is a beautiful, silent contract among Guyanese where this, the smooth, rich bun enhanced with dried fruit and spices, is concerned. The contract is to make the bun only for Good Friday.
Known as the Easter Bun in some countries, the cross-bun’s history is somewhat blurry. But it is said that a monk made the first one, and marked it with a cross in observance of Good Friday.
It is felt that if the bun is consumed bearing in mind the solemnity of the occasion, miracles can occur. Some claim they have seen the Lord, while others claimed they saw the Mother of Christ.
The British, in the early days, felt the bun had healing or magical properties.
I wish to take this opportunity to recognize the bakers, consumers and all peoples of this country for their wisdom in preserving this recipe, and the fact that they do not use it during any other period of the year other that on Good Friday.
We, as a people, also know that good food brings good health and happiness to the human soul and human heart.
Whether it’s cross-buns or parsad, black cake or siranie, food is a great tool of unification among people.
Respectfully,
Roshan Khan Snr
