Deck the Halls the Guyanese Way: A traditional Christmas experience

Marked by a unique blend of cultural influences and a Caribbean flare, Christmas in Guyana is one of those unrivalled experiences that are laden with fond memories.
The holy season of celebrating the birth of Jesus Christ has evolved to an awakening of a sense of togetherness, gratitude, and charity. And most of all, it is one of the busiest times of the year in Guyana – ample testimonial to the saying that “there is no Christmas like a Guyanese Christmas”.
Christmas in Guyana begins when the calendar is turned to December; and plans are immediately put in motion to ensure all the quintessential elements are in place for that grand time. For many, the first line of action is to figuratively turn the house upside down, scrubbing away even the tiniest speck of dust. In a signature ‘deck the halls’ mode, new carpets replace old ones, garlands and Christmas trees are brought out for their annual appearance, and lights are strung across houses. On the popular Regent Street and in key hubs in Georgetown, persons track the new arrivals as their window-shopping skills are honed to a work of art.

Masqueraders working the streets of Georgetown in their colourful costumes

Against the backdrop of carts blaring popular Christmas music, Guyana Times ventured out to scope the shopping extravaganza, and the first thing noticeable were the long queues at stores as persons tried to secure toys for the children, besides festive décor and household items.
Faye Ann, clutching two bags of curtains as she made her way out of a store, has said the holiday season means everything ‘new and bright’.

Pepperpot and Bread is a Christmas staple

“Well, I’m a little last minute, because I wasn’t finding the blinds I wanted. But it was a rush today. Everybody is just busy and crowded…This is something I do every year. Always have to buy new blinds and mats, and make the house look new and bright,” she said as she spoke to us.
Asked whether she got her children’s gifts already, the mother of three disclosed, “Of course! That’s one (chore) I think I did early, since November. I went out early and wrapped them.”
At both Stabroek and Bourda Markets, walnuts and grapes are stacked high as vendors coax passers-by to purchase. And by Christmas Eve, you can count on slashed prices as vociferous vendors work hard to sell off their seasonal products. As they stand in front of their laden carts and stalls, bellowing bargains in efforts to outdo their competition, purchasers find it hard to traverse the area without getting distracted or succumbing to the irresistible bargains.

Popular must-haves adorning
well-stocked shelves at the Stabroek Market

Throughout this ordeal, you’re sure to see masqueraders resurrecting their age-old tradition to sweep the streets with dances and colourful costumes. Whether on stilts or flat-footed, whether at traffic lights or on street corners, these masqueraders and their skillful drummers are sure to make their presence known.
With the passage of time, the prevalence of masqueraders has dwindled, but in times when the art form has been taken up by few youths, the older, seasoned folks typically show up to preserve this rich tradition.
After all the hubbub in ensuring everything is in place, Christmas morning is met with calmness. The distinct aroma of pepperpot simmering on the stovetop wafts tantalizingly around homes, and voracious appetites are aroused. Pepperpot accompanied by fresh bread is a quintessential breakfast choice for many.

Vendors on Regent Street putting out their display of toys

A few days before December 25, most households get a head-start on this specialty, since it requires cooking meats in luscious cassareep, peppers, spices and herbs for several hours, until it is darkened and flavourful.
Aside from attending church, spending time with families, and opening presents, you can look forward to the spread of Christmas delectables laid out from hours of labour in the kitchen.
By then the fruitcake or rum-soaked black cake would have had its chance to add to the aromas emanating from the kitchen. Typically served with the staple ginger beer or fruity sorrel drink, these flavours meld together to create that unforgettable Christmas experience. (Rupa Seenaraine)